Press: What your Tween & Teen should be putting on their skin (According to a Dermatologist), SKINtween, 2024
This article was originally posted on the SKINtween website.
Here at SKINtween, we aren’t into guessing when it comes to skin – particularly the skin of children. So, we caught up with Dr Clare Patterson in her Peregian Beach practice to find out what all tween parents want to know – What should my tween and teen be doing with their skin?
What age do children start experiencing changes in their skin and what are some common changes that can be expected as they transition into teenage years?
From around age 10 they can start to develop subtle blackheads on the nose, little pimples under their skin and in the middle of their forehead. That’s a sign that their skin is starting to produce oil. Some children have no issues after that, that’s as bad as it gets.
Some children get more and more excess oil and it becomes blocked and can’t come out, that’s when they can start to develop red, angry pimples and more florid blackheads.
Children are entering puberty earlier now so this all coincides with those changes.
If a tween or teen is just starting to introduce a skincare routine what products and ingredients should they reach for first?
The way to start is always with a gentle wash – just enough to remove excess oil accumulation. A gentle wash tends to not have a lot of soap in it as this can be too drying. What we’re trying to do is stop accumulation of excess oil and gently unblock the pores.
You don’t want to start getting into battles with children when it comes to skincare because they can get quite defensive and lose interest in it all together. It’s not until they’re around 13-14 that they’re consciously engaged. Up until then it’s important not to push too hard as it can build a resistance. For that reason I tend to be really minimal with tween regimes. At the age of 10-11 your skin should be able to create its own moisture barrier so apart from a gentle wash you shouldn’t really need excessive products and routines at this age.
Are there any skincare ingredients or products that you wouldn’t recommend for use on tween and teen skin?
A lot of products contain Fragrances and Preservatives to prevent them from going off and everyone (but particularly teens) can easily develop allergic reactions to these. The more we are exposed to these, the more likely we are to develop an immune reaction. Exposing children to so many ingredients from a young age seems to be developing more and more allergies. Parfum or fragrance is often synthetic and is a very common cause of skin reactions and allergies. Harsh, active ingredients are also not necessary and can cause irritation.
If a teenager begins noticing signs of acne what are some of the first steps that you would recommend they take?
If your skin starts to become more oily and congested then you can start to add in ingredients such as a BHA like Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid sounds harsh but it actually Isn’t. It’s quite an easy ingredient to use. Oil control pads and Tea Tree Oil Wipes are also great. It’s not natural for kids new to skincare to want to jump straight into a full skincare routine, so something easy to use like wipes that control oil can be helpful and easy to use.
You also don’t want to stigmatise kids. They may not even notice their breakouts so it’s important not to make a fuss if they aren’t worried about it. Another myth is that pimples happen when people aren’t washing properly, but that’s actually not true. I see mum’s with boys who are frustrated because they can’t get them to do this step or use these products but the it’s just winding the situation up and not making any difference. When children are younger than 13 they generally don’t have an insight into how they look so it’s important not to make a big fuss.
Squeezing won’t cure acne but if you want to squeeze a pimple clean your skin first and wash your hands first. Use a tissue to squeeze pimples so you’re not spreading bacteria. Finish with tea tree as an antiseptic.
If a teen is suffering from severe acne are there any specific ingredients, products or treatments that you would recommend?
Acne is complicated and it’s not just about how well you wash your face. If it’s all persisting as a child is getting older you can add in some more active ingredients. AHA’s such as glycolic acid will gently affect the keratinocytes on the surface to gently get them to turn over faster to let the oil out so it’s not getting blocked. Benzyl peroxide is most accessible off the shelf and then cream based antibiotics from your GP would also be the next step.
What are some of the biggest mistakes you see when people are trying to treat acne?
Overusing retinoids which makes the skin red and angry. It creates more irritation to something that is already irritated.
A big problem for kids in their mid teens is drinking whey protein. Boys are starting to go to the gym at a much younger age and taking protein powders regularly, which can stimulate more oil production and cause issues with acne.
People underestimate the upset that acne is causing for teenagers. The oil is coming up, getting blocked, there’s an explosion of the skin and it’s actually causing damage to the epidermis and dermis which is what causes a “crater” on the skin. If your teen is starting to experience these inflamed pimples that are causing so much damage you really need to think about stronger dermatologist lead treatments because scars can be undone at the early stage. People leave it too long and the pimples are causing significant discomfort, inflammation and damage. Children from the age of 11 can start seeing a dermatologist for age appropriate treatments if needed.
Are any of these popular active ingredients suitable for use on tween or teen skin?
Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic Acid is very low risk. It’s a very benign substance that is perfectly fine for tweens and teens to use.
AHAs?
Good for teens with acne but not for tweens.
Niacinamide?
Very gentle ingredient considered soothing rather than an active benefit
Vitamin C?
Not really suitable for children as it can cause irritation in high doses and can make you more sensitive to the sun.
Vitamin A/Retinol?
Tweens and Teens should stay away from this ingredient as it can be very uncomfortable and harsh to use and it also makes you more sensitive to the sun.
It’s also important to note that there’s a difference between prescription actives and those found in off the shelf ingredients.
What age is it appropriate to start skincare treatments – either at home or in the salon?
From 11 it’s ok to get some gentle treatments if your child is interested in it. LED treatments offer gentle, calming results for early acne treatment.
Facials are generally very benign. Just avoid loads of extractions and stay away from peels. Clay masks with real ingredients can be a gentle and relaxing way to enjoy a facial experience. This is even more so true for children – put things on your skin that you’d be willing to eat.
Any other advice you’d like to give to teens or tweens just starting out with skincare?
Keep it simple.
Tinted sunscreen is a great way to introduce makeup to cover pimples and protect their skin from the sun.
Parents shouldn’t squeeze their children’s pimples, this can be very upsetting for the kids.
Buy quality products for children with good ingredients.
Dr Clare Patterson specialises in skin cancer, acne treatment, rashes and cosmetic treatments.
You can find Dr Clare Patterson’s Practice at:
Shop 3/212 David Low Way
Peregian Beach QLD, 4573
Join her Instagram Community here
